Easily lasted moccasin construction



2 Sheets-Sheet 1 J. H. GROSSMAN EASILY LASTED MOCCASIN CONSTRUCTION Nh A L? m m. Nw Q w R. 1J z Y MU Sw km, x QN\ wm. 9m, Nw

Aug. 28, 1962 Filed' April 20, 1962 Aug. 28, 1962 J. H. GRossMAN 3,050,876

EASILY LASTED MoccAsIN CONSTRUCTION Filed April 20, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INV ENT OR cire/ame Grass/Wan 3,65%,875 Patented Aug. 28, 1962 3,050,876 EASILY LASTRE) MGCCASIN CIENS'I'RIC'IIN Jerome H. Grossman, Bangor, Maine, assignor to Penobscot Shoe Company, Gld rlown, Maine, a corporation of Maine Y Filed Apr. 20, 1952, Ser. N ISSWSd 4 Claims. (Cl. Bti-11) This invention relates generally to shoes, and is particularly concerned with shoes of the moccasin type.

In Older, and more conventional forms of moccasintype shoes, certain joining operations of the parts used to form the moccasin must be carried out by handsewing. Because of the increased expense in labor, as well as the time consuming requirements in performing hand operations, suggestions have previously been made as to the manner in which moccasin-type shoes can be formed from components adapted to be joined together by machine stitching operations. While such prior suggestions have afforded certain advantages, they have also presented certain disadvantages.

In the formation of moccasin-type shoes which can be fabricated by machine stitching operations, it is recognized that it is preferable to use a blank for rforming an upper and sole portion, which blank includes a pair of connected elongated segments symmetrical about the medial transverse axis of the blank. The segments include toe, shank, and heel portions constituting respectively opposite sections of the toe, shank, and heel portions of the upper and sole portion of the iinal moccasin formed by the blank. The plug or front top section of the toe area of the final moccasin can -be easily stitched to the aforesaid blank, and a saddle can be easily applied thereover to yield the desired functional construction, as -well as an attractive appearance. Moreover, conventional insoles, outsoles, backstays, stilfeners, and the like can be easily secured to a formed blank such as described above to provide the final product.

Consistent with the foregoing, and in an attempt toV present an easily constructed moccasin, it has been suggested that the blank be formed with bottom edges having a particular shape which permits the inward folding of the bottom portions of the blank to bring the bottom edges into abutting contact along a seam extending longitudinally of the moccasin formed thereby from the tip of the toe to the extremity of the heel. Such a construc tion allows for the insertion of the plug, or joining of the plug to the blank, and the subsequent joining of the bottom edges of the rblank along the sole seam without causing any puckering or shirring with reconciliation of unevenness of adjacent or mating edge portions. However,

such a construction is inherently subject to certain limi-` tations with respect to shaping.

In particular, with a `formation or construction of the type discussed in the immediately preceding paragraph, it is diihcult if not impossible in most instances to bring the upper close and snug to the last for subsequent operations thereon. Any adjustment in shaping must be accomplished by shrinkage, as opposed to positive forming due to the fixed relation of the components established by the longitudinal sole seam incorporated in such a construction which extends from the toe throughout the sole to the heel.

From the foregoing discussion, it should be appreciated that although the particular type of moccasin construction discussed above aifords substantial advantage from the production standpoint, it is inherently subject to certain limitations as to shaping, and these limitations tend to offset and overcome the possible advantages. Thus, there remains a need for a moccasin construction which affords the advantages discussed, but is not subject to the limitations of prior suggestions.

A primary object of the present invention is to satisfy the aforesaid need, and provide a moccasin incorporating components which can be machine sewn into fixed relation with one another, but in such a manner as to permit adequate shaping and adjustment of the components so that they can be brought close and snug to the last by means other than shrinkage. More specifically, it is an object of the present invention to provide in a moccasin, an upper and sole portion comprising a blank including a pair of connected elongated segments symmetrical about the medial transverse axis of the blank, which segments include toe, shank, and heel portions constituting respectively opposite sections of the toe, shank, and heel portions of the upper and sole portion, and which segments are so shaped that when joined together by machine, they provide a sole portion having a longitudinal seam therein extending from the toe portion to and within the shank portion, and an opening extending `from the shank portion to and within the heel portion so as lto allow for adjustment during the lasting operation. Of course, consistent with this object, the invention contemplates the provision of an upper and sole portion as aforesaid, which is readily adapted to receive and have attached thereto a plug, a backstay, an insole, an outsole, a heel, and suitable pads and stieners which complete the moccasin and provide a piece of footwear which is attractive in appearance, and durable in use.

The invention lies in the combination, construction, and arrangement of the various component parts of a shoe constructed in accordance herewith, or more par-v ticularly of an upper and sole portion for a moccasin constructed in accordance herewith. The invention will be better understood, and objects other than those speciiically set forth above will become apparent, when consideration is given to the following detailed descrip-V tion. Such description refers to `the annexed drawings presenting a preferred and illustrative embodiment of the invention. In the drawings:

FIGURE 1 is a plan view of the preferred form of primary or main blank used in accordance with the present invention for formation of a moccasin constructed in accordance herewith;

FIGURE 2 is a plan view of a rear side section adapted to be attached to the blank of FIGURE 1, whereby to complete the primary blank and form the same into a pair of connected elongated segments symmetrical about the medial transverse axis thereof;

FIGURE 3 is a plan View of a backstay and kickplate respectively joined together in accordance herewith and adapted to be stitched in position in covering relation to the heel wall of amoccasin constructed in accordance herewith;

FIGURE 4 is a plan view of a plug adapted to be ystitched to a primary blank constructed in accordance herewith so as to form the cover shield or plate for the toe section of the ultimate moccasin;

FIGURE 5 is a plan view of a binding strip adapted to be used in completing a moccasin constructed in accordance herewith;

FIGURE 6 is a perspective view of a nished moccasin constructed in accordance with the present invention;

FIGURE 7 is a perspective view, partially broken away, and partially in section, of the moccasin shown in FIG- URE `6, FIGURE 7 presenting preferred details of construction;

FIGURE 8 is a sectional view taken on the line 8-8 of FIGURE 6 and presenting the details of construction in the heel portion of a moccasin constructed in accord- 0 ance herewith;

FIGURE 9 is a perspective view of an upper and ysole portion formed in accordance herewith, and turned on its side, all before having the outsole and heel aixed thereto; and

FIGURE l is a fragmentary detailed view of the heel Wall of a moccasin constructed in accordance herewith, FIGURE showing the preferred disposition and coupling of the backstay and kickplate hereof.

' It is to be understood at the outset of this detailed description that the invention lies in the formation of an upper and sole portion of a moccasin from a blank Y Vit is to be initially understood that the blank shown in to the edge 14, and a'double line of stitches 4such as shown at 16 in FIGURE 6 is used for joining the edge 12` to the "edge 14. Once this initial operation is complete, the blank provided hereby for forming an upper and lsole portion of a moccasin is symmetrical about the medial transverse axis thereof. Specifically, 4such blank comprises a pair of connected elongated segments generally designated by the numerals 20 and 22. The segment 20 is formed integrally and as a one piece unit with the forward end portion of the segment 22. The blank 10 of FIGURE 2 isi coupled with `such integral one piece unit, as shown in phantom in FIGURE l, and thus completes the segment 22 so that the segments 20 and 22 are symmetrical about the axis A-A.

As explained more fully below, each of the segments 20 and 22 includes a toe,.shank, and heel portion constituting respectively opposite sections of the toe, shank, and heel portions of the upper and sole portion of the ultimate moccasin. Each segment 2t) and 22 is of afull length of the moccasin to be formed and terminates at a heel edge 24.

. Y The medial longitudinal axis L through each of the segments is disposed at an obtuse angle with respect to the axis A.-A. The obtuse angle is designated by qb in FIGURE 1, and it lwill be noted that the same is appreciably less than 135, and preferably is of the order of 105. By virtue of the aforesaid symmetry, the description of the segment 20 corresponds substantially identically with Vany description which can be made of the segment 22, as far as general contour is concerned, and thus for purposes of simplicitythe contour of the segment 20 only is described hereinbelow. t

The upper elongate edge of the segment 2,0 has two edge portions 32 and 34. The edge portion 32 is of a gently convex contour and extends from the medial transverse axis A-A along the toe portion of the segment 20--i'.e.'along that portion of the segment Ywhich will ultimately form the toe portion of the moccasin. The

i other edge portion 34 of the edge 30 extends across the shank and heel portions of the segment 20 to the heel edge 24 thereof. The edge portion 34 is generally straight and inwardly offset from the edge portion 32. The term oifsetj as used in this specification, and the appended claims, refers to an ,interruption-in continuous contour. Thus, the'edge portion 34 can be regarded as inwardly oset'from'the edge portion 32, inwardly offset meaning disposed closer at the junction between the edge portions to the medial axis L.

The medial axis L of the edge portion 34, which although generally straight, may bel very slightly concaved, is disposed at an obtuse angle gb'. The angle qs as shown in FIGURE l, is less than the'obtuse angley (p formed between the medial longitudinal axis of the segment 20 and the medial transverse axis A-A.

The edge 4t) of the Vsegment 20 opposite the edge k50 alsoV has two edge. portions designated respectively -by 42 and 44. The edge portion 42 extends from the axisA4A and is appreciably convex as 'it continuouslyextends into the central portion of the segment 29, or shank Aportion thereof. The other edge portionV 44 ofthe elongate edgeV 40 is inwardly oifset adjacent the edge portion 42, but tapers outwardly to the heel edge l24 of the segment 20.

As suggested above, the foregoing description of the segment 20 applies equallywell to the contour of the segment 22. Thus, the edge portions and sectionsof Vthe segment V22 have been labeled with prime numerals corresponding to those used toV described the edges of the seg-V ment 20. As will be readily appreciated by those of ordinary skill in the art, the blank 2, as well as the blank 10,

are formed of leather, and other suitable leather'blanks,`

such as the binding blank 50, the -.backstay, blank 52, the kickplate blank 54, and the plug blank 56 are also formed from leather. The blanks 2 and 10 may be provided with score lines such as designated by the numeral 48 in FIG- URES l and 2 to permit theV ready folding and shaping thereof.

Preferably the backstay blank 52 and kickplate lblank 54 are joined together in a separate initial operation to provide a composite blank such as shown in FIGURE 3. For this purpose, as shown in FIGURE l0, the lower edge 56 of the backstay blank 52 is bent outwardly, and the upper edge 58 of the kickplate blank 54 is also bent outwardly. A series of loop stitches such as 64 are passed between the outwardly bent edges, and the. edges are scored or hot-die marked so as to produce an illusion of hand stitching at 66 as shown in FIGURE 6.y n

The edge portions 32 and 32 of the Iblank 2 are shaped to be joined with the generally pear-shaped forward edge 70 of the plug 56. Ifdesired, the plug 56 can be skived, as conventionak in spaced close parallel relation to the edgeY 70 so as yto readily permit the joining between such edge and the edgerportions 3G and 32. This joining is carried out by means of stitches, or a machine stitching operation in a conventional manner, and the projecting edges which result after the stitching along the line 73, as shown in FIGURE 6, are hot-die marked or scored so as to resemble hand stitching as at 74. A marking dart or the like can be provided at the apex vof the edge 70 of plug 56 to permit ready and proper alignment of such apex with the axis A--A of the blank 2, if desired. Such marking dart is conventional, Vand While the same may be employed at various locations to facilitate fabrication, merely this one example has been presented herein.

After the plug 56 has its edge 70 thereof joined to the edge portions 32 and 32 of the blank 2, then the Wing flanges 76 and 77 thereof are stitched to the blank 2 in overlying relation to the areas shown in plantom in FIG- URE 1 and designated by the numerals 76 and 77. It will be observed that with the construction as joined in the manner described above, the material of the primary blank above the mean longitudinal axis L of the segments thereof, when folded lat the center, provides upstanding sidewalls 3 and 4 as shown in FIGURES 6 and 7, which up-` n'dge and a smooth interior joint. It is this raised ridge which is scored or hot-die marked and designated by the numeral 74 in FIGURE 6.

After performing the preceding operations, the heel edges 24 and 24' are brought into abutting contact, and a row of zigzag stitches 100 (FIGURE 8) or a double row thereof, is used to join the heel edge 24 with the heel edge 24 in abutting relation. Of course, the respective edges are coextensive, in accordance with conventional practice. After performing this operation, the combined blank formed by the backstay lank 52 and the kickplate blank 54 is stitched in overlying relation to the heel seam 102 formed by the joining of the respective heel edges 24 and 24'. This combined blank is designated by the numeral 106 and is shown as being stitched in position by means of stitches S in FIGURE 6. Upon completion of this operation, the binding strip blank 50 is folded over the top edge portions 34 and 34 as shown in FIGURES 6 and 7, and stitched in position in conventional manner by means of the line of stitching 51. Thereupon, a suitable saddle such as designated by the numeral 110 in FIGURE 6 is fixed across the plug 56 in conventional position, and secured in place by means of stitches such as designated by the numeral 112.

The series of steps described above completes the upper, and can be easily performed by machine stitching, as should be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. After such formation, the slip-lasting operation is performed to shape the moccasin top and to bring certain lower edge portions into either abutting or spaced relation. More specifically, during the slip-lasting operation, the edge portion 42 is folded inwardly and brought into abutting contact with the edge portion 42. By virtue of the convex contour of these edge portions, a seam 12d is formed therebetween, which seam, as shown in FIGURES 7 and 9, extends medially and longitudinally of the sole portion of the formed blank which is designated by the numeral 139 in FIGURE 9. Now, it is particularly important to note that when the edges 42 and 42 are brought into abutting Contact, this does not result in bringing the edge portions 44 and 44 into abutting contact. However, the edge portions 42 and 42', when brought into abutting contact, are secured together )by means of loop stitches 132, as shown in FIGURE 7. Thus, a fixed seam extends along the sole portion 136 from the tip of the toe designated as 140 to a point 144 between the ends of the shank portion of the blank, or the ultimate shoe.

After folding of the blank as described and formation of the seam by the stitches 132, by virtue of the shaping of the lower edge portions 44 and 44', there exists an opening in the sole portion 132, which opening is axially aligned with the seam 132. The opening is generally designated by the numeral 150 and has a generally pointed forward end 151, a generally rectangular central section 152, and a generally circular heel section 154. The generally circular heel section is in the heel portion of the formed blank, and the generally rectangular section is in the shank portion of the formed blank.

It is importan-t to understand that the shaping of the blank, and the joining in the manner aforesaid provides in accordance with the invention the opening 150. This opening has substantially less width than the sole portion and is essential to proper shaping because it permits bringing the formed blank into close and snug contact with the last for the lasting operations. The essence of the invention lies in forming the blank with this opening, in other words, because it is this opening which overcomes the problems heretofore faced-by prior workers in the art attempting to provide a machine stitched moccasin type shoe.

The remainder of the components of the finished shoe are secured to the formed blank providing -an upper and sole portion as described above, 'in any suitable conventional manner. Preferably, a shank stiifener 172, of wood or other suitable material, is interposed between the sole portion 138 of the formed blank, and the outsole 170. Moreover, the outsole preferably carries a heel such as l174, and the formed blank has stitched therein an insole such as designated by the numeral 175 in FIGURE 8. The stitching extends peripherally in adjacent spaced relation to the edges of the sole portion as is conventional. The ultimate product, moreover, preferably has a sock lining such'as 180 therein in overlying relation to the insole 175.

The particular manner of securing the outsole in place, the insole in place, the use of the shank stiffener, and the use of a sock lining are conventional, and the nal formation of the shoe from an upper and sole portion constructed in accordance herewith can be accomplished, as suggested, in accordance with well-known techniques. Further discussion thereof appears unnecessary.

It should be noted, however, that all of the sewing operations can be performed before slip lasting and without preliminary heel lasting and toe lasting. Thus, by virtue of the provision of the construction provided hereby, a machine sewn moccasin type shoe can easily be fabricated, and can be readily shaped and adjusted dur-ing the lasting operations. There is no need to rely on shrinkage for adjustment, and thus a superior quality nal product can be obtained.

After reading the foregoing detailed description, it should be appreciated that the objects set forth at the outset of the present specication have been successfully achieved. Accordingly, what is claimed is:

l. In a moccasin, an upper and sole portion comprising a blank including a pair of connected elongated segments symmetrical about the medial transverse axis of said blank, each of said segments including toe, shank and heel portions constituting respectively opposite sections of the toe, shank and heel portions of said upper and sole portion, each segment being of a full lengt-h of the moccasin to be formed and terminating at a heel edge, the medial longitudinal axis through each of said segments ybein-g disposed at an obtuse angle with respect to said medial transverse axis of appreciably less than one elongate edge of each segment having two edge portions, one edge portion of said one elongate edge being gently convex and extending from said medial' transverse axis 'along the toe portion of said segment, the other edge portion of said one elongate edge extending across said shank and heel portions of the segment to the heel edge thereof, said other edge portion of said one elongate edge being generally straight and inwardly offset from said one edge portion of said one elongate edge, the medial axis of said other edge portion of said one elongate edge being disposed at an obtuse angle less than said obtuse angle gb, the opposite elongate edge of each segment also having two edge portions, one edge portion of said opposite elongate edge extending from said medial transverse axis appreciably convexly into the shank portion of the segment, the other edge portion of said opposite elongate edge being inwardly offset adjacent said one edge portion of said opposite elongate edge and tapering outwardly to said heel edge `of the segment, said blank being folded with said one edge portion of each of said opposite edges in abutting contact along a sole seam extending longitudinally and medially of said folded blank, and with said heel edges in abutting contact along a heel sea-m, said blank being stitched along said sole seam and said heel seam to maintain said blank as folded, said other edge portions of each of said opposite edges dening, in said blank as folded, side edges of an elongate opening in said sole portion extending along said shank portion to and within said heel portion thereof, said elongate opening being axially aligned with said sole seam `and having a mean width substantially less than the mean width of said sole portion.

2. In a moccasin, an upper and sole portion `as defined in claim l and further including a plug stitched to said segments along said one edge portion of said one elongate 8 edge, and a backstay stitched to said segments in over- 4. In a moccasin, yan upper and sole portion as defined lying relation to said heel seam. in claim 1 wherein one of said segments comprises two 3. In a moccasin, an upper and sole portion as dened connected separate pieces.

in claim l wherein said other edge portion of said oppo- Y site ledge of each of said segments is shaped to provide 5 References Cie ill the me 0f this Patent in said blank as rfolded an elongate openingVhav-ing a- UNITED STATES PATENTS *Y generally pointed `forward end adjacent said sole seam, a Y .Y

generally rectangular section extending rearwardly theregagn T "Apr' 1i ofracross said shank portion of said solev portion, and a 2645042 s* f J mf 1953 generally oiroulm rear section in said yheel portion of said 10 m er u y sole portion. 2,974,427 Woli r r Mar. 14, 1961 

